Ikat textiles
What does ikat mean?
The word “ikat” means “to bind.” It is a very ancient way of creating
designs in fabric by resist-dyeing the threads before the fabric is
woven. In Uzbekistan, villagers especially in Ferghana Valley take the
weft (crosswise filling threads) and tie tiny bits of plastic onto the
threads. The tightly tied areas of thread, when put into the dye pot,
resist the color and create a pattern, once the plastic ties are
removed. Traditional Uzbek ikat cottons are often dyed in lively and
engaging motifs representing the village life and beliefs of the
people. Ikats are often symbols of status, wealth, power and prestige.
Modern Uzbek adras ikats in cotton and silk are brightly colored with
good imported natural dyes.
How does the ikat fabric differ from other fabric?
Ikat fabrics are woven by hand on narrow looms in a labor-intensive
process. Uzbek ikats are generally 15.7” (40 cm) to 23.6” (60 cm) wide.
Handwovens, free of the chemical additives and stresses of power-loom
production, are vastly different in appearance and feel from
machine-made fabrics.
Plainweave ikat fabrics, due to the unique resist patterning, look the
same on both sides of the fabric; there is no right side and wrong side
to the cloth. The Uzbek adras ikats typically have 2” to 3” solid
borders along each selvage. Many designers make use of these special
qualities.
How they were used?
In the ninteenth century, when these fabrics were woven, they had a purpose beyond
their commercial role as luxury trade goods and beyond their social functions as
presentation robes and ceremonial costumes.
The Central Asian ikats were made to give pleasure, to delight and entrance the viewer.
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